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Please contact me for more help and I will be happy to take a look at your lawn and give you more detailed help and information based on a lawn analysis.
Thank you, The Turf Trainer


1. Proper mowing is one of the most important factors that you have control over. I recommend that cool season grasses (Bluegrass, Fescue) be mowed at no less then 3 inches in the spring and fall and between 3.5 to 4 inches during the summer. You may choose to mow a little shorter at 2.5 inches for the first and last mowing of the year. Mowing high is very beneficial to the grass. The roots may develop in proportion to the mowing height and grow longer, sturdier roots with increased height. Taller mowing heights may also shade out small bare areas and give the appearance of being fuller. You will also cover and shade small areas and keep weeds from germinating. You can determine what height your mower is set at by taking a ruler and measuring the distance from the ground to the bottom of your mower's deck. It is also important to make sure that you have your blade sharpened at least once a season to get a good clean cut. Otherwise you will leave frayed, whipped and brown ends on the grass blade, which will take away from your lawn's appearance. Last but not least mow your lawn regularly. Grass can become stressed by allowing it to grow high, then chopping it down. If you mow following these tips you will be amazed at the difference it makes in over all health and appearance through the year.


2. Watering is very important especially during periods of drought and excessive heat. Do not let your lawn turn crunchy. It is possible for severe drought to cause stress which will make your lawn more susceptible to other problems and can result in parts of your lawn dying. You can tell when a lawn is starting to dry out because the blade edges start to curl towards each other. This is your lawn's attempt to protect itself. Normally your grass blades will be flatter. A healthy lawn requires an inch of water a week to thrive. However, if you cannot achieve this amount of watering, making a good effort and watering when you can will definitely help. The best time to water is in the morning. At this time the water will have time to be absorbed by the lawn before the heat and high sun. Watering during the day does not burn the grass blades as commonly thought, information from different agricultural extensions will confirm this. However, the a lot more of your water will evaporate before it can soak into the soil and can be a waste of resources! Watering at night can cause moisture to sit too long during the right temperature range to prompt disease problems. Different soil types, weather conditions and problems may prompt the need for different watering schedules. Please contact me and I will be happy to advise you!


3. Aeration is one of the most beneficial services you can have performed. It increases your lawns ability to absorb water and nutrients from fertilizer. It also prevents water runoff, helps reverse soil compaction, makes the lawn more drought tolerant, promotes thatch breakdown and helps with root development. Aeration is beneficial for every type of lawn. There are certain conditions and circumstances that make aeration a mandatory part of a good lawn care program. Poor soil types such as clay should be aerated annually. If you have compacted soil, thatch buildup or a thin or poor lawn I highly recommend aeration. It is also great to do when you are going to have the lawn seeded. It creates holes for the seed to fall into and germinate. When aerating, cores of soil are removed from the ground and put back on top to breakdown. The more cores removed the better as it will increase all the benefits. It is best to pay to have it done right. Some of the lowest priced services do not remove enough cores to make a great deal of difference.


4. Seeding is not just for lawns that are in bad shape. Over seeding combined with aeration will ensure that your beautiful thick lawn will stay that way. If you have a lawn that has thin or week areas seeding in the fall is a must. These services should be performed during the late summer or fall depending upon the weather conditions. Cool weather grasses, which most homes in our area have, need to be planted after the harsh summer heat. When you plant from September through October the grass has time to grow before it goes dormant for the winter. Then will grow and become more mature the following spring before it has to face the heat of the summer. March and early April may be a secondary option for planting. I would utilize the secondary time frame if a lawn is an eyesore and you do not want to look at dirt and weeds all summer while you wait for fall! Many times if you plant in late spring due to favorable moisture and temperatures the grass will germinate and look great. But, once the we hit a heat wave or drought conditions the new grass will die. The other benefit of over seeding and thickening your lawn is that a thick lawn gets less weeds. You will notice that thin or bare areas in your lawn will constantly develop weeds. Giving them a starting point to grow and create seeds and spread into the rest of your lawn. My own front lawn is very thick and I get very few weeds. The combination of a thick lawn and blanket spraying keeps my lawn as weed free as possible.


If you have any specific questions about your lawns condition or what can be done to make improvements please contact me.


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